Baltimore’s pit beef sandwich has a murkier paper trail than most regional barbecue traditions, and the writers who have chased it down say so plainly. This account draws on two Baltimore Sun features: Richard Gorelick’s 2015 investigation into pit beef’s Baltimore origins, and Luke Broadwater’s 2014 profile of Chaps Pit Beef for the paper’s “Postcards from U.S. 40” series.
An Origin Nobody Can Quite Pin Down
Gorelick, writing for the Sun’s City Paper section, found that most food historians he consulted agreed pit beef emerged from Baltimore’s east-side working-class neighborhoods, but the specific when and why remain unsettled. Searching the paper’s own archives, he located the earliest mention of pit beef in a 1968 advertisement for Al Kelz’s Elite Tavern on York Road, where it was listed alongside steamed and soft crabs, crab fluffs and crab cakes as part of a crab-focused menu — notably not on Pulaski Highway, the corridor now most associated with the dish. After that ad, Gorelick found no further mentions until 1976, followed by years of passing references in notices for bull roasts and neighborhood fundraisers, with no dedicated coverage of pit beef as a food culture in its own right.
Pulaski Highway’s Roadside Stands
Anecdotal accounts place pit-beef stands along Pulaski Highway as early as the 1970s, according to Gorelick’s reporting, well before the press caught up to the trend. Sun columnist Rob Kasper made a passing reference to “the pit beef places I had heard so much about” in a 1982 article, though he noted the stands hadn’t yet opened for the season that February; by 1987 Kasper was describing pit beef as Baltimore’s favorite food. The turning point Gorelick identifies came in 1992, when the Sun ran its first dedicated feature treatment of pit beef culture, including a roundup of ten stands, timed to coincide with the opening of Oriole Park at Camden Yards and the popularity of Boog Powell’s concession stand, Boog’s Corner, inside the new ballpark.
Chaps and the Modern Pit-Beef Stand
Broadwater’s 2014 Sun profile traces the most recognizable name in Baltimore pit beef to a specific parking lot. Bob Creager, a former steelworker who had no restaurant experience, opened a small pit-beef stand in 1987 in the parking lot of a Southeast Baltimore nightclub owned by his father-in-law, Gus Glava. Family members put up $7,000 to build a twelve-by-fifteen-foot stand with no electricity, and Glava suggested naming it Chaps, after his own club. Creager learned to cook pit beef by trial and error, crediting Mike DeCarlo of the nearby stand Big Al’s as an informal mentor. According to Broadwater’s reporting, the same 1992 Sun feature that Gorelick identifies as pit beef’s public debut also drove a sudden jump in sales specifically for Chaps — the two Sun accounts, written five years apart by different reporters, independently point to that single 1992 article as a turning point for the food’s visibility.
Not Quite Barbecue, By Design
Gorelick’s piece raises a classification dispute that’s central to understanding the dish: pit beef, cooked directly over hot charcoal on a spit or grate rather than slow-smoked at low temperature, is not barbecue in the technical sense many barbecue writers use, and Gorelick notes it is nearly impossible to write about the dish without addressing that distinction. He also records complaints, dating back to the 1992 coverage, about modern shortcuts — grilling over gas instead of charcoal, machine-slicing instead of hand-carving, and serving on white bread instead of a roll — suggesting that debates over authenticity have been part of pit beef’s public identity from nearly the moment it became a named tradition rather than just a private neighborhood habit.
From One Stand to a Franchise
Chaps grew steadily after 1992, according to Broadwater’s reporting: a 2008 appearance on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” brought another surge of business, and the stand later drew visits from national television crews and celebrity chefs. What began as a one-employee operation with no seating expanded, through ten rounds of construction, into a business with about twenty-five employees and roughly fifty seats. Pulaski Highway — U.S. 40 — became known locally as “Pit Beef Row,” a strip Broadwater notes was once also home to Big Al’s and Big Fat Daddy’s, though many of the original stands along that stretch have since closed or relocated. Chaps’ condiment, tiger sauce, is described in Broadwater’s article simply as two parts mayonnaise mixed with one part horseradish — a plain formula that belies how firmly it has become attached to the sandwich regionally.
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