This recipe is taken from HAWAIʻI Magazine — How to Make Hawai’i-Style Huli-Huli Chicken, written by John Heckathorn. The original Huli-Huli recipe was never published — its creator, Ernest Morgado, kept it a trade secret even after he later bottled and sold a version of the sauce — so what follows is Heckathorn’s own approximation, built in the same style and method, rather than Morgado’s exact formula.
Where Huli-Huli Chicken Comes From
In 1954, Ernest Morgado — a former naval intelligence officer — and chicken farmer Mike Asagi founded the Pacific Poultry Company in ʻEwa, Hawaiʻi. The following year, at a gathering of farmers, Morgado barbecued chicken in a teriyaki-like sauce based on his mother’s recipe, cooking it between two hinged wire grills that had to be flipped over by hand. “Huli” is the Hawaiian word for “turn,” and onlookers would call it out as the chickens needed flipping, which is how the reduplicated name was born. The dish became a fixture at Hawaii fundraisers for schools, softball teams, and hula hālau, reportedly raising millions of dollars over the following decades, and Morgado trademarked “Huli-Huli” in 1967.
Ingredients
This marinade, per Heckathorn, is enough for about three chickens split in half — scale it down proportionally for a smaller cookout, since it’s meant to be eyeballed rather than precisely measured.
- 1/3 cup ketchup
- 1/3 cup soy sauce
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1/4 cup sherry
- 1–2 tablespoons sesame oil
- 1–2 pieces ginger root, crushed
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- Worcestershire sauce, to taste
- Sriracha or Asian chili paste (or red pepper flakes), to taste
- A squeeze of lemon, if you have one
Method
- Combine the marinade ingredients. Marinate the chicken for at least 30 minutes — longer is fine.
- Set up your grill and cook the chicken over the fire, brushing it with the reserved marinade as it cooks.
- Turn — “huli” — the chicken regularly so both sides cook and baste evenly.
- Cook until the chicken reaches a safe internal temperature of 165°F (73.9°C) at the thickest part, checked with a thermometer rather than by time, since piece size and grill heat both vary.
Spit, Rack, or Open Grill
Traditionally, Huli-Huli chicken is barbecued on a revolving spit or in a hinged wire rack over mesquite (kiawe) wood, which is what gives roadside versions around Hawaii their smoky edge, according to the Wikipedia account of the dish, which draws on the same news reporting as Heckathorn’s article. A rotisserie attachment gets you closest to that effect at home; failing that, a covered grill with regular basting and turning — the whole point of the name — gets you most of the way there.
A Recipe That Isn’t Really the Recipe
Morgado never released his exact formula, and when a reader wrote in asking Hawaiʻi Magazine for “the original Ernie Morgado recipe,” the magazine could only offer its own version, built in the same spirit. According to the magazine, Huli-Huli chicken as a named dish largely disappeared from menus after Morgado began marketing his own bottled sauce under the trademark — but roadside grills across the islands still turn out what is, in the magazine’s words, “pretty much” the same chicken. It’s just not allowed to be called Huli-Huli Chicken unless it’s Morgado’s own product.
A Note on Brining
If you want extra insurance against dry chicken, Wikipedia’s summary of published Huli-Huli recipes notes that some cooks brine the chicken first — in a solution of kosher salt, sugar, bay leaves, garlic, sesame oil, or thyme — before marinating it in the sauce above. It’s an optional extra step on top of Heckathorn’s recipe, not part of it, but it’s a reasonable one if you’re working with lean breast meat rather than thighs or leg quarters.
Keep reading
- Chicken Inasal: Kawaling Pinoy’s Filipino BBQ Recipe
- Korean Gochujang Grilled Chicken Wings (Korean Bapsang)
- Tandoori-Style Chicken on the Grill: Swasthi’s Recipe
- Lebanese Shish Tawook: Mama’s Lebanese Kitchen Recipe










